Da fishy, he is done

posted: Sun 21st Oct, 2007, categories: Uncategorized

Project #10 came to a successful conclusion, if I do say so myself.  It was probably the least stressful project I’ve done, a combination of a new attitude and workging to my strengths, such as they are.  Attitude is everything, though.

It's done!

My only disappointments with this project are a) the break in the tail, which was totally foreseeable, and I probably could’ve modified the design to get rid of it; b) the gaps between some of the pieces, which should be lessened in future because I ordered some 3/0 blades; and c) some lighter sawdust trapped in the superglue that calls attention to itself.

Regarding issue c) I’m not sure what I can do about that; maybe more acetone at earlier cleaning stages after I pick it out.  I think it’s actually  shell dust; the wood isn’t that color.  That said, I am AMAZED at how well the superglue/sawdust filler around the little front flipper worked out.  It’s not even distinguishable at first glance.  Thats what we want!

I stopped sanding the whole piece at 800, as that’s the dust that seems to get trapped in the pores of the wood. I guess that’s why they say quit at 400, but I don’t like the scratches that are still in the shell at 400, so I will just attempt to sand the wood to 400, then spot-sand the design itself to the shine I like.

It’s hard to get a fair representation of color of the shell in a photo; I’ll try again tomorrow in daylight, but in a bit of shade, so I don’t get the glare.  The middle part of the body ended up with some white and gold striations, though the piece started as gold.  I expected this to some extent; gold MOP is just the colored lip of white MOP, and if you sand far enough, you’ll start sanding through it.  That said, I think the striations give it a more realistic, fishy look.  One thing I noticed once I had it all put together is that the front part of the fish and the middle part of the fish flash on from 2 different directions; I’m not sure how I feel about that, and it probably would’ve been worth it to check that ahead of time so that the whole piece flashed on at the same lighting angle.  Live and learn.

The next design I’ve got in mind is a very silly one, based on a card I picked up once.  It could be a hoot, or a horror.  We’ll see.  It’s also 55 pieces.  I’m not going to tip my hand yet, in case I get into it and decide it was all a horrible mistake.   Stay tuned.

Project #10 Continues

posted: Tue 16th Oct, 2007, categories: Uncategorized

Last Saturday, I had 2 goals: rout and glue. I did the first routing with the 1/8” bit, as usual, and it went pretty well. I feel like I am growing in my control of the router, slowly but surely. One reason I picked this design is because it’s a single cavity, and I tend to do better routing those; the putzier it gets, the worse I get.
PA130039

I carefully collected my routing shavings/dust in case I needed to do some filling later in the process, should the router decide to throw off my reins at some point.
PA130040

I cleaned up the routing with the 1/32” bit with the router base, and then decided to do a little more clean-up with the same bit in the hand tool (after trying 2 dental burrs that were largely ineffectual). The latter was a mistake—without the weight of a router base, and two hands on it to control it, the router bit grabbed the wood and started plowing along. I ended up with an oversized cavity next to the front flipper, and a nasty nick in the wood next to the bottom fins. I had planned all along to do a smooth line over the top edge of the dorsal fin, as trying to rout that would be way beyond my skills at this point, and it would’ve just ended in frustration. The little arrows you see in the paint are areas that needed a bit more shaved off prior to the dry fit, and I did that with the router base again; I won’t be using the hand tool much; I can’t control it the way I want to. But it would be good to have a transparent router base. I’m already at a visual disadvantage; it’d be nice to see where I’m headed without having to lift the tool.
PA130042

After dry-fitting the fish, which was now in several pieces instead of one after so much handling, I went and got my glue, which I’m storing in the house now. I started squeezing it into the cavity, and while it started well, it stopped and no pin would open the way. There was some kind of clog, and eventually I just had to yank the top off forcibly with a pliers. I used a plastic pipette as a stopper when I was done. I don’t know if the glue will hold up, but I’ll have to order some new stuff anyway.
PA130044PA130045

I got the glue in the cavity and the pieces pressed in, then I got my sawdust out and pressed as much as I could into the worst gaps.
PA140046

One problem I’ve been having is with air bubbles forming, and getting stuck, in the drying superglue. I had a plan to give my Space Bags a try to create vacuum enough https://www.spacebag.com/spacebag/901715/ to get the air out, but when I discussed it with Athena, she said she’d heard that some folks swore by vibration while the stuff dried. I decided that option had the lesser potential for a big mess, and once everything was glued and ready, I stuck the works on top of the aquarium pump I use to blow sawdust out of my way when I’m sawing or routing. It vibrates very fast and consistently. I left it like all afternoon and when I went to check on it late in the evening, it seemed to have helped a lot.
PA130043

Sunday, then, was sanding day, though I didn’t get too far. I have been struggling with some kind of sanding setup that will hold my piece firmly while I sand it, yet will not get in my way, like clamping the piece itself does. The space under the clamp never gets sanded the same as the rest, and even if you move it around, you just get several problem spots. Plus, the clamp itself mars the piece itself and only adds to your sanding time.

I solved this, for the time being, by jerry-rigging a clamping system involving 2 other pieces of wood and 2 clamps in a design that I’d been thinking about for awhile, but hadn’t attempted. This was just scrap wood I had lying around. I put the piece to be sanded down and found 2 sturdy, yet relatively thin, pieces of scrap wood and clamped the scraps down tight enough to hold the piece in place.
PA140048

Then I just sand the piece and when I’m going side-to-side, there’s no problem. I actually like the scrap on the right better for its thickness—it doesn’t impede my momentum like the other piece does. You can see how the right-hand piece is also getting sanded. If I ever break down and get that band saw, I’ll cut it in 2 and it’ll be perfect, at least for the stock I’ve been playing with lately. If I sand up and down, it tends to move, but I just whack it back in tighter. It certainly is better than using carpet tape, which never lasts long with all that dust; it comes up after a few strokes.
PA140047

I sanded with 80-grit until all the paint, filler, and excess glue were gone. I was pleasantly surprised to find that the superglue and sawdust filler blended wonderfully with the cocobolo—you could barely tell it was there—and the vibrate-while-drying experiment was largely a success. There were a few bubbles I had to pick out, but not nearly as many as usual. I’ll use that technique again—thanks Ath! I was able to put on another layer of thin superglue to fill in where I’d picked the bubbles out and left it to shake dry overnight. All that remains is to finish sanding. Sanding is my best skill, so I’m feeling confident.

Progressing nicely

posted: Thu 4th Oct, 2007, categories: Uncategorized

This’ll be a quickie, as I have a bunch of stuff to do yet tonight for my trip tomorrow, and I wanted to get this post up for the weekend. I got my fish glued together, and then I had to do a lot of tedious scraping to get the overflow superglue off the edges with an Exacto knife. Don’t ask about the Exacto knife. Anyway, I decided to experiment with the use of acrylic paint as a glue. I’d used it before for scribing, as paint is a lot easier to cut into than wood, and it worked pretty well. And that was my initial plan here as well. However, when I put the acrylic paint on the wood, it seemed so thick, I wondered if it would function as a light-weight glue: strong enough to hold it for scribing, but not so strong that the plate would break when I tried to get it off later, a problem I’ve had with both superglue and Duco cement.

Paint as glue--2 birds with one stone

Once it’d dried, I scribed it with an Exacto knife. Slicker than snot, and no movement of the pattern as I scribed, though I held it still just in case. And then I slid the blade under one age to pop it up, and it came up so easily. I’ll do that again. It might be a good technique for me, and the paint will just be sanded away.

Post-scribing Post-scribing

Here’s the backside of the plate; just a little paint that came off easily with a few passes of the sanding block. I didn’t want to get overzealous. It’s just acrylic, so I could probably just wash it in soap and water, and it’d be fine. Water doesn’t do anything to dried superglue.

Just a little bit o' paint to sand off--easy.

Next up: routing–next weekend.  Routing’s tough for me; I need to do it when I’m fresh.